Rome is stately and impressive; Florence is all beauty and enchantment; Genoa is picturesque; Venice is a dream city; but Naples is simply — fascinating.
– Lilian Whiting
I can’t say I ever really knew Naples. Years ago I went to Naples with my ex-husband, it was a layover towards our trip on the Amalfi coast. We didn’t get out of the hotel much, except to get pizza. We heard rumors of the lack of safety, saw the trash that aligned the streets, and chose the safety and comfort of our hotel room. This time, I debated this, would I just use Naples as a resting layover? I originally planned to stay in my room and rest in between trips. But I am so glad I pushed myself. I ventured to Pompeii en route to taking a flight to Lampedusa. There was such richness, beauty, and questions on the remains that I walked among. I was filled with wonder and awe of what I had witnessed. Upon returning from Lampedusa, I would have one night in Naples before I would meet with a group I was planning to take a pilgrimage with. I wanted to make the most out of this opportunity as well.
I was staying by the train station, and although it was convenient for transportation, it wasn’t the most spectacular way to be welcomed by a city with homeless people lining the McDonalds by the train entrance. I heard warnings to watch my belongings, and so I walked quickly to get to my hotel. My food choices were only partially based on reviews, but primarily I wanted to eat as close as possible to the hotel, so I could rush back.
“…the city of Naples was like this: wonderful from a distance, but when seen close up, it was fragmentary, indefinable, and coarse…”
― Franco Di Mare, The Paradise of the Devils
Yet for the morning I wanted an adventure. As I walked towards the historical center, I realized Naples is a city that is misunderstood, or in reality, it’s complex. Yes, there is the crime factor, the mafia, but there are layers of immigrants here, diversity, old castles, and beautiful streets that are lined with laundry that is hung to dry. Trash is everywhere, but they are next to little cafes serving lemoncellos or cappacinos.
That morning, I allowed myself to have time to wander into a store to buy this fabulous yellow hat that replaced my hat which was worn out from the previous week. There was a church I walked into that seemed more of a food bank storage than a place of worship. I was led to the local Cathedral, lit candles for both my grandmother and dog, and took in the beauty.
I ventured to the Cathedral, modern art museum, and the birthplace of pizza at L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. I waited in line for 35 minutes for a takeaway pizza, as I yearned to see what the hype was about. Since 1870 this restaurant has been serving pizza. There were four choices to choose from, and an entire pizza cost 5.50 euros. Crust was extremely thin, the slices were not cut up, but it tasted delicious. I could only devour half of the pizza, but on the way to my hotel I dropped off the other half to one of the homeless individuals I saw earlier that day.
On summer days in southern Italy the heat and sun can be excessive, and one should also expect that there may be no air conditioning. *Travel tip for Americans travelling to Europe for the first time. I’ve learned over the years that some Europeans don’t truly believe in air conditioning, as they feel it’s bad for your health. Air conditioning is a luxury, but for some it’s avoided at all costs. Travelling may not always be comfortable, but it’s at times part of the process. The point of travel is to get out of your comfort zone, your everyday life, witness how another part of the world lives.
“If I’m an advocate for anything, it’s to move. As far as you can, as much as you can. Across the ocean, or simply across the river. The extent to which you can walk in someone else’s shoes or at least eat their food, it’s a plus for everybody. Open your mind, get up off the couch, move.”-Anthony Bourdain
It Only Takes A Smile 