“Stuff your eyes with wonder, live as if you’d drop dead in ten seconds. See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories.” ~ Ray Bradbury
I am about to embark on a pilgrimage for the Black Madonna in the Amalfi Coast. This begins next week, but I thought I would embark on my trip a little earlier. I flew into Naples and before catching a flight the next day to another city, I had some free time in the morning. I squeezed in Pompeii. I had been to Naples previously with my ex-husband who is Italian American. Although we loved Italy, Naples wasn’t our favorite. All I remember was grabbing pizza and staying in our hotel. We didn’t want to venture onto the streets that appeared impoverished, full of trash, homeless, mafia, and crime. Naples was a stopover on our way to go to the Amalfi Coast. For this trip, I had originally planned the same itinerary. Pizza and staying in my air conditioned hotel room.
I am a world solo traveller, and pride myself in this. But I have to admit before going to Naples I had some anxiety. This was because I had to leave my 14 year old chug Bella again. I was grateful she was going to stay with friends, but their plans were delayed and to sort it out I had to rely on another friend to offer keys to my apartment and greet them. I left four page instructions and stick it notes around the house to direct guide and answer any questions. Yes, I may be an overprotective dog mom but wanted to offer the most for my pet and my friends who would be staying in my place. Maybe the guilt for leaving was excessive, after my 15 year English Bulldog died last year the day after I returned from a trip. But Bella is healthy and a wonderful host. (Thank you in advance Mayra, Dave, and Lucy for helping with this!)
Another worry that crept in was the potential crime that Naples had, was I going to stand out like a tourist and be targeted? I was so lucky that an acquaintance Veronika was on my flight from Malaga to Naples. I was staying close to the train station, and she said there was a lot of crime there. Her warning for me was to watch my belongings because I had excess stuff. I was travelling for 2 ½ weeks, and had only a carry on and a bag. She was going to be in Italy for a month, and had only one backpack. She even thought this was too much for her. Veronika also encouraged me to “look both ways when crossing the street here, then look again.” She had lived in the region before. Although I am a world traveller, I was humble enough to welcome the advice. All was welcome and needed. She also was able to guide me to my hotel, as my phone and the new sim card was not currently working in the country.
Although I had an easy chill night upon arrival, after grabbing a pizza (in the city that invented pizza), I opted to push the boundaries and go to Pompeii in my spare morning hours the next day. I was so grateful I did, to observe with wonder the vastness of this city, the impact of destruction, and the remnants that highlight the luxury of past residents. But it was hot! July in Southern Italy is full of intense sun and heat, but I was prepared with my layers of sunblock, sunglasses, a hat, loads of water, and an abanico.
The entire day I was dripping with sweat, as one can witness in this photo. It looks like I am glistening. It started off to me glistening and transitioned to a ghastly site. I was living in my sweat throughout my exploration of the grounds of Pompeii, the ride back to Naples in a non-air conditioned crowded train, walk to my hotel and the bus stop. As I stood on the bus ride to the airport, crammed next to other travellers, sweat dripped into my eyes. I was dripping with sweat on every part of my body. It seemed as if others were not quite as soaked as I was, but they probably didn’t rush through Pompeii. I expected to be this hot and disgusting when walking the Camino and wearing hiking gear, but travelling in a city I wasn’t prepared for that. I was glad I was not travelling with anyone, because I am sure we would have been irritable and complaining. I stayed silent and focused on the current task at hand.
There was a mantra I repeated to myself throughout the day “this is part of the journey.” This week leading up to the pilgrimage, was the pilgrimage. The pilgrimage does not begin when I meet with the group, it began when I left my home. The insanity of Naples, the ups and downs, the fears, the joys, the assistance from friends, the sweat, the delicious pizza, the observation of gorgeous antiquities or sacred geometry floors was all part of it.
Pilgrimage and some forms of travel are not for the faint of heart. It requires grit and persistence to embark on such a thing. To be a tourist, is to glide from one air conditioned vehicle to another, stay in an air conditioned hotel, be escorted to safe locations, skip the ugly façade of cities, minimize walking and public transportation, have tasty elaborate meals, and witness only the beauty of cities. This is what you pay for. It’s a luxury and it is why retirees vacation like this. They deserve it. There is nothing wrong with this, and at a certain age I would only want to walk through the world in this way. But for now, I am reasonably young, healthy, and have an overall positive mindset. I can handle the fluctuations of a journey. I know the struggles can only enrich the story. And so far there have been no “bad” parts, just really uncomfortable.
I have such appreciation for the kindness of my travel guides and friends who assisted (and continue to assist) along this journey. I value the wanderluster in me who opted this time to get out of my Naples hotel room and head to Pompeii to walk through the ruins. There’s such gratitude for being safe, interacting with friendly people, and having the luxury of time to do this. Whenever you may be going through difficulties in your travels, after getting out a little complaining, pause and reframe. It’s all part of the journey.
It Only Takes A Smile 